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A letter from the Felina team

Your cat isn’t doing it to spite you. Here’s what they’re trying to tell you, and what you can change.

The Felina method: one cause to find, one plan to follow, one step a day for fourteen days. For anyone whose indoor cat pees outside the box, scratches the furniture, lashes out or hides, and who is tired of guessing.

  • 30-day money-back promise on the guide
  • Arrives by email right after payment
  • Vet first, always

Dear cat owner,

If you’ve found this page, we’d guess this isn’t your first evening on your knees with a roll of kitchen paper.

Maybe it’s the bath mat. Maybe it’s the corner behind the sofa, the pile of laundry, or the duvet you washed yesterday. Maybe it’s right next to the litter box, which somehow makes it worse.

Or maybe it isn’t a puddle at all. It’s the arm of the sofa, scratched down to the frame. It’s two cats who can’t pass in the hallway without a hiss. It’s a cat you’ve barely seen since the day you brought them home, because they live under the bed.

You’ve probably tried a few things already. A different litter. A second box. A spray from the pet shop. A scratching post that stands untouched in the corner. A video that said one thing, and a forum thread that said the opposite.

And at least once, late at night, you’ve probably wondered whether your cat is doing it on purpose.

They aren’t.

We started Felina because we think most of what’s written about cat behaviour starts in the wrong place. It starts with the puddle, the scratch marks or the bite. We’d like to start with your cat.

In this letter we’ll explain, as plainly as we can:

  • why a cat who has been fine for years can suddenly change;
  • why the usual fixes so often help for a week and then don’t;
  • the simple picture at the centre of our method, which we call the full glass;
  • and how our guide helps you find what’s behind it in your home, and what to change, one step at a time.

We’ll use the litter box as our main example, because it’s where Felina started. But the same method sits behind all four tracks of our guide: peeing outside the box, scratching furniture, aggression towards other animals or people, and fear and hiding.

By the end, you’ll know:

  • what your cat is most likely reacting to;
  • which changes to make first, and which can wait;
  • how to tell whether something is working;
  • and when to stop and call your vet.

It’s a long letter. We’ve written it this way because these problems deserve more than a list of tips. If you read to the end, you’ll understand why your cat does this better than most of the advice you’ve found so far, whether or not you ever buy anything from us.

Let’s start with the most important part.

First, one thing we’ll ask you to do

Before you change anything at home, rule out a medical cause.

Peeing outside the box can be a sign of a urinary problem, of pain, or of something only a vet can see. Some older cats with stiff joints stop using a box simply because climbing over a high side hurts.

The same goes for the other three problems. Pain is a common reason a gentle cat starts to hiss, swat or bite. A cat who suddenly starts hiding may be unwell. And a sudden change in scratching can point to sore paws or stiff joints.

If the behaviour is new or sudden, or your cat strains in the box, cries when touched, limps, eats less or seems unwell in any way, book a vet visit first. Today, if you can. A male cat who strains and passes little or no urine needs a vet the same day.

And if a bite or a deep scratch has broken your skin, see a doctor. Cat bites can become infected quickly.

That’s why our method begins on Day 0, before the first real step. Not because a lawyer told us to. Because a method that skips it isn’t one we’d put our name to. On the aggression track we’re firmer still: no change at home starts until your cat has seen the vet.

Once a vet has ruled out a medical cause, many owners hear a version of the same sentence: “It’s probably behavioural.”

And then they go home with no idea what that means, or what to do next.

This letter is about that part.

You’re not the only one, and it isn’t a mystery

If it helps to hear it: you are far from alone.

What matters for you is the conclusion: very often, this has a reason you can find. Not a flaw in your cat. Not a failure on your part. A reason.

Why we started Felina

If you’ve gone looking for help, you’ve probably found two kinds of answer.

The first kind is free, and there’s a lot of it. Ten tips here, seven mistakes there. Some of it is good. Much of it contradicts the rest. Almost none of it tells you which tip applies to your cat, in your home, or in what order to try them.

The second kind is a consultation with a feline behaviour specialist. Personal, thorough, and the right choice for some cats. But it costs more than most owners expect to spend on a problem they still hope will sort itself out, and it isn’t where most people start.

Most owners end up somewhere in the middle: a pile of tips, no plan, and a growing sense that they’re the problem.

We wanted to build the thing in between. One clear method, written up as one guide for each problem, that you can follow at home, step by step, at your own pace.

That’s what Felina is. We started with the litter box, because it’s the problem that makes home life hardest, for owners and for cats. Then we wrote the same method for three more problems that wear a home down: scratching, aggression, and fear and hiding.

We also make what the method uses at home: Little Wins, our treats, for the reward steps, and Felina Home, a plug-in diffuser. The guide is the method; they make it easier to keep going, day after day.

The advice that makes it worse

Some of the oldest advice about cats and litter boxes is still the most common. It comes from good intentions. But some of it does real harm.

”Rub their nose in it.” Your cat doesn’t connect the puddle with what happens to them minutes later. They connect it with you. What they learn is that you are unpredictable, and that peeing where you can see it is a bad idea. So they find somewhere you can’t see.

”Shout, clap, or use a water spray.” Same problem, louder. A cat who already feels unsettled at home now has one more thing to feel unsettled about: you.

”Clean it with bleach.” Many household cleaners, especially ones with ammonia, leave a smell that can remind a cat of urine. You see a clean floor. Your cat may smell a toilet.

”Just get a spray or a plug-in.” Our guide has a plug-in diffuser among its changes, but as one change among the others, never instead of them. On its own, it can’t make a box bigger, move it away from the washing machine, or give the second cat a box of their own.

”Try this. Then this. Then this.” A new litter on Monday, a box in the bedroom on Wednesday, a spray on Friday. When everything changes at once, you never learn what mattered, and your cat has five new things to get used to.

The other problems have their own versions. The cat who scratches the sofa gets a squirt of water, and learns to scratch when you’re out. The cat who swats gets told off or picked up, and learns that hands can’t be trusted. The cat under the bed gets pulled out “to get used to people”, and finds a better hiding place. Each time, the behaviour is punished, and the reason behind it stays exactly where it was.

None of this is your fault. It’s what most of us are told. The trouble is that all of it starts from the same idea: that the behaviour is the problem.

It isn’t. The puddle is the message. So are the scratch marks, the hiss, and the cat who won’t come out.

The picture at the centre of the method: the full glass

Here’s a picture we’d like you to keep in mind for the rest of this letter.

Imagine your cat carries a glass of water through the day. Every small thing that bothers them adds a little water.

The box is next to the washing machine, which roars twice a day. A little water.

The other cat likes to sit in the hallway, between them and the box. A little more.

A cat they don’t know walks past the window every evening. The new rug smells of the shop. You’ve been coming home later. The usual litter was out of stock, so you bought a different one.

None of these, on its own, is a big deal. Your cat copes with each one.

Until the glass is full. Then the next drop, however small, spills over.

The puddle on the bath mat is the spill.

  • the box
  • its place
  • the other cat
  • the window
  • changes at home
Each small stress adds a little. The spill is what you see.

It’s a picture, not a scientific model, and it works for all four problems. What changes is where the glass spills. Onto the bath mat. Onto the sofa, with claws. Onto the other cat, the dog or your ankles. Or inwards: under the bed, to stay there.

Three things follow from this picture, and they explain almost everything you’ve been through.

”Suddenly” is rarely sudden. The glass was filling for weeks or months. The day it spilled over just looks like the day it started. (If it really did start overnight, that’s one more reason to see your vet.)

One fix rarely does it. Take one drop out of a full glass and it’s still nearly full. The next small thing spills it again. That’s why the new litter seemed to help for a week, and why the new scratching post was popular for two days.

Mopping up doesn’t lower the level. Cleaning, scolding, sprays: they deal with the spill, or with the air around it. They don’t touch what’s filling the glass.

Now the part that matters most.

You can lower the level.

Most of the drops are things in your home that you can see and change: where the box is, how many boxes there are, what’s in them, who can reach them, what happens at the window. Where the post stands. How close the other cat has to pass. How many safe places a timid cat has. You don’t need to remove every drop. You need to find the biggest ones, take them out one at a time, and give your cat time to notice.

That’s what the method is for.

Why you couldn’t have seen it coming

If you’re reading this and thinking “I should have noticed”, please don’t.

Most of the drops in your cat’s glass are invisible to us. Your cat can smell the stranger cat who sprayed the front door last night. They can hear the fridge, the boiler and the neighbour’s dog in a way you can’t. They notice that the box is now three steps from the radiator, not five.

And the things we can see, nobody tells us about. The box you bought was the one the shop sold, not one sized for your cat. A covered box looks tidier to us, and can feel like a trap to a cat who can’t see who’s coming. Putting the box in a quiet corner by the fridge seems kind, until you remember that the food bowl is there too, and cats prefer not to eat where they go.

It’s the same with the other problems. A post too short for a full stretch looks fine in a shop. A cat who swats when stroked may have been asking you to stop for a while. A cat who hides looks shy, not frightened.

You did what any loving owner would do with the information you had. This letter is just more information.

Four phases in fourteen days: Rule out, Read, Reset, Review

The Felina method turns the full glass into a plan you can follow. It has four phases, and The Stressed Cat takes you through them one day at a time. Here they are for the litter box, with a word on how each one looks on the other three tracks.

  1. Day 0 · Rule out. Check with your vet. If the behaviour is new or sudden, we start by ruling out medical causes. The guide tells you what to mention at the appointment and what to ask, so the visit gives you an answer, not just a bill. If your vet finds something, follow their advice first and come back to the guide when they say it makes sense. For scratching, the vet looks at the paws and claws too. For aggression, it comes with a chapter on safety. For fear, it covers getting a frightened cat to the vet with less stress.
  2. Days 1–3 · Read. Understand the cause. You draw a map of your home, answer guided questions about your routine and your cats, and watch for three days. Where does it happen? When? What happened just before? Is it peeing or spraying? You note it all in a short diary. It takes a few minutes a day, and it’s the step it’s most tempting to skip. At the end of Day 3, you have a short list of the most likely drops in your cat’s glass, biggest first. The other tracks read in the same way: every scratched spot and its height; the early signs before a swipe; every hiding place, and the small signs of a brave moment.
  3. Days 4–10 · Reset. Change the routine, one change at a time, starting, for every cat, with a plug-in diffuser on the evening of Day 3. The box first: its size, its cover, the litter, how clean it is. Then its place: somewhere quiet, with a clear way in and out, away from food and water. Then space: in a home with more than one cat, each cat gets their own food, water, resting spots and a box, plus one spare. Then the outside: what your cat can see from the window, and when. Then play and a predictable day. And all along, cleaning old spots the right way, so they stop smelling like a toilet. Each change gets a day or two before the next, so you can see what it does. For scratching, Reset means the right post in the right place, and the sofa made less interesting for a while, never by punishment. For aggression: space first, two of everything, and good things from a safe distance. For fear: more hiding places, not fewer, and letting your cat come to you.
  4. Days 11–14 · Review. Adjust and keep going. You look back at your notes. What changed? What didn’t? You keep what helped, adjust or undo what didn’t, and decide what to try next. If little has changed, Day 13 tells you what to look at again, when to go back to the vet, and when to ask your vet about a veterinary behaviourist. And you leave Day 14 with a plan for the weeks after.

Keep: after day 14

A new routine needs time to settle, so the guide ends with one more chapter, for the weeks after.

It gives you a weekly check for the next six weeks: a few questions, a few minutes, so you can see whether the changes are holding.

And it tells you what to do after a setback. There will probably be one: a visitor, a holiday, a storm, a new sofa. One bad day doesn’t undo two weeks of work. The chapter helps you tell a wobble from a real change, and shows you which step to go back to.

Each track adds what its problem needs: when the covers can come off the sofa, how to bring two separated cats back together slowly, how to plan for visitors and noisy nights.

Why fourteen days? It’s long enough to see a pattern and try changes properly, one at a time. It’s short enough to start this week and keep going.

It isn’t a deadline for your cat. Some cats settle sooner, some need longer, and some homes need a second look at the list. The guide tells you what to do in each case.

What following the guide is actually like

You don’t need to rearrange your life, or your flat.

The Stressed Cat comes in two parts: a PDF, and fourteen daily emails. The delivery email brings the PDF and Day 0, the vet visit. From the morning after you choose your track, one email a day, Days 1 to 14, each with that day’s step. The delivery email arrives right after payment.

Each day there’s one step. You read it in that day’s email, which takes a couple of minutes, or in the PDF.

Then you do one thing. Sometimes it’s moving a box a metre to the left. Sometimes it’s sitting on the floor for ten minutes and watching where your cat goes when the doorbell rings. Sometimes it’s nothing at all: some days are for watching what yesterday’s change did.

Some steps use a treat: a quiet reward after the box, a treat on the new scratching post, one tossed gently towards a timid cat. Little Wins, our treats, are made for those moments, and the method kit brings them every 8 weeks with refills for the diffuser and a new toy, so they’re at hand when the day’s step needs them.

Then you spend two minutes on the progress sheet. A tick, a note, a word about how the day went.

That’s it. Most days, the whole thing takes about a quarter of an hour, plus some quiet watching.

The sheet matters more than it looks. When you’re tired and the third puddle of the week is on the floor, it’s easy to feel that nothing is changing. The sheet shows you what actually happened. Sometimes it shows a real pattern you’d never have noticed. Sometimes it shows that Tuesday and Thursday were good days, and that’s good to know too.

What you’ll know at the end of the fourteen days

Here’s what the litter box track gives you, as concretely as we can put it:

  • which of the five most common reasons is most likely in your home: the box itself, where it is, changes at home, another cat, or something outside;
  • whether your box, its place and its litter suit your cat, and exactly what to change if they don’t;
  • how many boxes your home really needs, and where;
  • how to clean an old spot so it stops calling your cat back;
  • how to give each cat in a multi-cat home their own space, without a bigger flat;
  • what to watch for that means “back to the vet”;
  • and what to keep doing after Day 14.

The other three tracks do the same for their problem: why your cat scratches where they do, and which post might suit them; what sets off the hissing or biting, and how to make home safer; what sends your cat into hiding, and how to help them come out without forcing anything.

What we can’t promise is that your cat will change by a certain day. We’d be wary of anyone who does. Every cat and every home is different. What we can promise is a clear method to work out what’s behind it, and a plan for what to change, step by step.

Is this for you?

It’s for you if:

  • your cat lives indoors, or mostly indoors;
  • they pee outside the box, scratch the furniture, lash out at another animal or a person, or hide and won’t settle;
  • your vet has ruled out a medical cause, or you’re about to book that visit;
  • it’s been going on for a while, and you’d like a plan instead of another tip;
  • you can give it a few minutes a day for two weeks;
  • you’d like to understand your cat, not just stop a behaviour.

It isn’t for you if:

  • your cat seems unwell, or it started overnight. Please see your vet first;
  • someone has been seriously hurt, or young children can’t be kept apart from the cat. Ask your vet about a veterinary behaviourist first;
  • you’re looking for a product that sorts it out on its own. There isn’t one, and we don’t sell one;
  • you’d rather have someone look at your home in person. A consultation with a feline behaviour specialist is the right choice, and we’ll happily tell you so;
  • you want a promise that it will be over by a certain date. We won’t make one.

What it costs, and why

Let’s talk about money plainly.

A home visit from a feline behaviour specialist is the most personal help you can get, and for some cats it’s exactly the right call. If yours is one of them, the guide will tell you so.

Now think about what this problem already costs you. The cleaning sprays. The litters you’ve tried. The rug you threw out. The throw over the sofa. The plasters. The evenings. The worry.

The Stressed Cat is €37, for all four problems. One payment, not a subscription. The PDF and the emails are yours to keep, so you can go back to them if something changes at home later: a move, a new cat, a new baby.

You won’t see a crossed-out price on this page, or a timer. There’s no “normal price” this one is discounted from. The price is simply the price.

Your guide arrives by email right after payment, so you can start the same day. And you can try it for 30 days: if it isn’t right for you and your cat, write to us and we refund you in full, even if you’ve started it. Founding members also help shape the guide: we ask what’s happening at home, and the answers change what we write.

One more thing. We also make what the method uses at home: Little Wins, our treats, and Felina Home, a plug-in diffuser. The complete plan brings the guide and both in one order, for €56.90: €19.90 less than buying each one. After that, the method kit brings what the method uses again and again, every 8 weeks.

What’s in the guide

The guide, as a PDF. Every step, from the vet check on Day 0 to your plan for the weeks after Day 14, with a track for each of the four problems. Written in plain words, for real homes. Read it on your phone, or print it.

Fourteen daily emails. One each morning for Days 1 to 14, on the track you choose, after Day 0 in the delivery email, so you never have to wonder what comes next.

Twelve printable sheets. The vet visit sheet, a map of your home, the three-day diary, the change log, the 14-day progress sheet, the weekly check, and one for each track. Printable, or on your phone.

Keep: after day 14. The last chapter: a weekly check for six weeks, and what to do after a setback.

Answers to the tricky cases. The cat who only pees on the bed, ignores every post, bites when stroked, or only comes out at night.

Questions? Our team answers by email, at hello@felinacatcare.com.

Yours to keep. No subscription and no expiry. Come back to it whenever you need it.

We haven’t put a “value” next to each item to make the price look small. We’d rather you judged that for yourself.

The guide

One guide, one method. Start with the problem at home.

The Stressed Cat is €37: a PDF plus 14 daily emails, with a track for each problem. Prices include VAT. Your guide arrives by email right after payment: the PDF and Day 0, the vet check. Then one email a day for 14 days.

  • 30-day money-back promise on the guide
  • Your EU right of withdrawal ends once the guide is delivered, with your consent
  • Payments handled by Stripe

If more than one sounds familiar, the guide tells you where to start: safety first if anyone is getting hurt, then whatever your vet flags, then the one that weighs most on your cat.

Or see everything side by side

The guide, the complete plan and the home set, and every product on its own.

What happens if you wait

Nothing dramatic. We won’t pretend otherwise.

But a few things tend to happen, quietly.

Each time your cat uses the same spot, it smells a little more like a toilet to them, and a little more likely to be used again. What started as a spill becomes a habit with a place of its own. Scratching works in a similar way: every scratch leaves a mark and a scent that says “mine”, and the arm of the sofa becomes the obvious place for the next one.

The glass stays full. Whatever was filling it is still there, and the next small change at home, a visitor, a holiday, a new piece of furniture, has nowhere to go.

And something shifts between you and your cat. You start checking the corners when you come home. You pick them up less. You catch yourself watching them with suspicion. Cats are good at noticing tension, even when they don’t know where it comes from.

There’s one good reason to wait: if you haven’t been to the vet yet. Then wait, and go first.

Otherwise, the best day to start reading your cat’s glass is the next one you have.

Our promise, in plain words

We’re asking you to trust a name you may not know yet. The least we can do is make it easy to change your mind.

The guide has its own money-back promise. Try the guide for 30 days from the day it arrives. If it isn’t right for you and your cat, write to us and we refund you in full, even if you’ve started it.

And you keep every legal right you have, including the EU right to withdraw: for the guide, it ends once it’s delivered, with your consent at checkout; for Little Wins, Felina Home and the method kit, you have 14 days from the day they arrive. The details will be in our terms of sale, published when sales open.

You don’t have to explain yourself, fill in a form or post anything back to get a refund: write to hello@felinacatcare.com from the address you used to pay.

Thank you for reading this far. Most people don’t, and the ones who do are usually the ones who care most about getting this right for their cat.

Your cat isn’t being difficult. They’re telling you something, in the only way they can. We hope we can help you understand what.

The Felina team

P.S. If you scrolled straight down here, here’s the short version. Peeing outside the box, scratching, lashing out and hiding usually have a reason you can find. The Stressed Cat helps you find it: a vet check first, then three days of watching, then one change at a time, on the track for your cat’s problem. It’s €37, arrives by email right after payment, and you can get your money back for 30 days. See the guide.

P.S. 2 Not sure what’s behind it, or not ready to buy anything? Start with the free preview of our guide: the first five pages, free.

Questions

What owners ask before they start

Will this work for my cat?

We can’t promise that, and we’d be wary of anyone who does. What we can promise is a method that helps you find the most likely reasons and change things in the right order, one at a time. Many of the reasons are in the home, which means many of them are things you can change.

Which track should I follow?

The one for the problem that’s hardest to live with right now: the guide helps you choose at the end of Day 3. Spraying is on the litter box track. Tension between cats, and a cat who bites or swats people, are on the aggression track. A cat who runs from visitors or noises is on the fear track. If anyone is getting hurt, start with the aggression track’s safety chapter.

How long until I see a difference?

It depends on your cat, your home and what’s filling the glass. The guide is fourteen days because that’s enough time to understand the cause and try changes one at a time. It isn’t a promise that everything will be different on Day 15. The last chapter, Keep: after day 14, takes you through the six weeks after.

Can I start before the vet visit?

You can start reading. Days 1–3 are about watching and taking notes, and they change nothing your vet needs to see. Bring your notes to the appointment, and wait for your vet’s answer before the changes on Day 4. On the aggression track, read the safety chapter first and watch only from a safe distance.

I’ve tried everything already.

You’ve probably tried a lot of things, and many of them at once. That’s a very common story. A guide changes one thing at a time, in an order that starts with the most likely cause, so you can see what actually makes a difference.

I have more than one cat. Will the guide still help?

Yes. The guide is written for one-cat and multi-cat homes, and competition for the box, the food or the best spots is one of the drops it looks for. If the cats themselves don’t get on, that’s the aggression track.

What exactly do I receive, and when?

A PDF and 14 daily emails, right after payment. The delivery email brings the PDF, as a private download link you can save and keep, and Day 0, the vet visit; then one email a day for Days 1–14, on the track you choose. Nothing is posted to you, unless you also order Little Wins, Felina Home or the method kit.

Can I ask questions along the way?

Yes. Our team answers by email, at hello@felinacatcare.com, about your order or a step you’re unsure of. We aren’t your vet, so if a question needs one, we’ll tell you.

Where do Little Wins and the diffuser come in?

The guide is the method: the steps, and the changes you make at home. The method kit brings what the method uses again and again: Little Wins for the reward steps, a new toy for play, refills for the diffuser and the next printable step, every 8 weeks. So it’s all at hand, and it’s easier to keep going. Little Wins are treats and Felina Home is a plug-in diffuser: neither is a medicine, and neither replaces your vet.

What if it isn’t right for us?

The guide has 30 days from the day it arrives, even if you’ve started it: write to us and we refund you in full. One email is enough. Your EU right of withdrawal works differently for the guide: EU law gives you 14 days to withdraw from a purchase. For a guide, that right ends once it’s delivered: at checkout you ask for it to be delivered straight away, and you accept that the right of withdrawal ends when it is. Until then, you can still withdraw. For Little Wins, Felina Home and its refills, and each delivery of the method kit, you have 14 days from the day they arrive to withdraw, as EU law gives you, and we refund what you paid for them, with the standard delivery cost.

Does Felina replace a vet or a behaviourist?

No. The guide is a method you follow at home. It can’t examine your cat or see your home. Your vet comes first, on Day 0, and the guide tells you when to ask your vet about a veterinary behaviourist: if someone has been hurt, if your cat stops eating or hurts themselves, or if nothing has changed after the 14 days and a second vet visit.

Something else? See all questions or write to us at hello@felinacatcare.com.